nuts4chic - travel
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by Louisa McKenzie I often find my mind returning to the warm cobbled streets of Florence, which I visited last summer.
Obviously, a trip to Florence would not be complete without a visit to its key museums and galleries: the Uffizi, the Galleria dell’Accademia and the Pitti Palace. In high season, these can get very busy. Last summer, the queue for the Uffizi stretched all the way around the loggia. Those in the know never queue. The way to avoid queuing is to book tickets in advance from 011 39 055 294 883. This service allows you to book for in advance for any of the state museums in Florence. You do not need to give credit card details, just your name. You are given a booking number which you take along with you when collecting your tickets. The service is invaluable, saving as it does, hours of queuing under the beautiful, but sometimes harsh, Tuscan sun. Also, almost all of Florence’s churches contain important artworks, although I suggest that an attempt to view all of these is only for the extremely studious. In my opinion, the best are the cathedral church, the Duomo, for Brunelleschi’s inspiring dome, the Baptistery opposite the Duomo, for its fantastic Byzantine inspired mosaic ceiling, the serene San Marco to view the work of Fra Angelico and Santa Maria Novella, for the fresco cycles of the Tornabuoni and Strozzi chapels and the Trinity by Masaccio. The latter work is fantastically important from an art-historical point of view as it is the first example of perspective being used in a painting. However, Florence also contains some hidden gems, mentioned by guide-books but not often visited, lost among the multitude of things to see and do in Florence. They are, however, a delight. For example, the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, relatively hidden on the opposite side of the street at the rear of the Duomo, is an efficient and well set out museum containing many important works. The original bronze Baptistery door panels, realized by Ghiberti in the 15th century are to be found in the Museo. The doors on the Baptistery buildings are replicas. The museums also contains a Pieta by Michelangelo, Donatello’s Mary Magdalen and a set of exquisite Renaissance vestments designed by Antonio dell Pollaiuolo. The church of Santa Trinita, nestling behind a nondescript facade opposite the Salvatore Ferragamo shop and museum, contains a beautiful set of works by Ghirlandaio. The church of San Miniato is far more simple inside than the majority of Florentine churches, due to its early date, with beautiful painted beams stretching far above the worshipper’s head. The only exception is the breathtaking Cardinal of Portugal’s chapel, a masterpiece of the marriage of sculpted and painted arts. The altarpiece is a replica, the original being housed in the Uffizi. San Miniato is my favourite place in Florence. When you are suffering from art-fatigue, Florence provides an excellent place for shopping, due to its manageable size and the breadth of products available. The high-end shops can be found mainly in the Via Tornabuoni. Salvatore Ferragamo’s headquarters are to be found here, the first shopfront when approaching from the river. As befits headquarters, there is impressive stock coverage, shoes, clothing, bags, sunglasses for both men and women. Above the shop area is the Museo Ferragamo, exhibiting some of Ferragamo’s astounding historical designs. A walk along the Via Tornabuoni finds all the usual designer suspects present and correct. The Roberto Cavalli store houses its own cafe for light refreshments. Louis Vuitton and Fendi are notable absentees but can be found in Via degli Strozzi which runs between the Via Tornabuoni and the Piazza della Repubblica. It always seems ridiculous to be looking at Fendi’s luxurious selection of furs in high summer when the temperature outside can reach between 95F and 104F but Florence provides plenty of opportunities to buy winter essentials, large and small, during the rest of the year. I always buy cashmere lined leather gloves from Martelli in the Via di Por Santa Maria during visits to Florence. The selection is second to none, in addition to plain cashmere lined gloves, which I choose for warmth and adaptability, they carry myriad other styles and a full range of colours for men and women. Also, staff fit the glove size to the hand of each customer, even if you know your size, to ensure the best fit.
The Antica Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella, of which the New York and London stores are additional branches, is a must (Via della Scala). The shop is a treat for all the senses and one really does feel as if one is stepping back in time. The stately refined interior can offer respite from the Florentine heat and the staff are friendly, multi-lingual and leave the customer to explore rooms and products at leisure. The Ponte Vecchio is, of course, the main location of goldsmiths shops. Some of these contain much the same stock as each other but one or two contain some lovely, unique pieces. The beauty of Florence, however, is that each visitor can discover something new or unique during their stay. |
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Florence is a paradise for art lovers and avid shoppers alike, a place where one can see world-renowned art and architecture but also be enchanted by a fresco or a terracotta frieze in a small side street. It is also a destination which offers a broad spectrum of shopping opportunities. 
An ideal location for magnificent vistas of Florence is San Miniato al Monte on the Oltrano. San Miniato is a church situated on a hill in a smart area in the south of Florence, easily accessible by bus or taxi. It is far better to walk down from San Miniato than to walk up. The journey down provides more great views of the Arno winding through the centre of the city. If arriving by bus, get off at the Piazzale Michelangelo to best take advantage of this. A great cafe is situated on the Piazzale, called La Loggia. It provides an unprecedented opportunity for taking in the view whilst the occasional harmless gecko scampers through the shrubbery. 
One thing that Florence lacks is a good department store. Raspini in the Via di Por Santa Maria is a large boutique offering a good range of ready-to-wear designer clothes and accessories with an emphasis on Italian designers (particularly Prada). However, I have found some items there, for example, some burnt orange suede and leather CarShoe for Prada sneakers which I could not find in London or Paris. For chic yet unusual clothes and accessories visit Molinari in the Via Calimala; you are unlikely to see many other people wearing the same items. 
