Gorgeous Goa
by Georgina Rodgers
Hurtling along in our clapped out 4x4 vehicle in the oppressive heat of
the mid-morning sun, we swerve suddenly to avoid yet another wandering
cow.
 In Goa there are no road markings, few traffic lights, and seemingly no
right of way. The same rules, it seems, apply to the hordes of stray
animals that appear only too happy to take a midday nap in the middle of
the road.
A single bead of sweat clings to my forehead and I am trying hard to not
think about the delicious rogan josh that I devoured the night before.
It seems like we have been travelling for days - in fact, checking my
watch I realise it has only been two hours - but Goa's bumpy roads make
even the shortest of journeys a bit of an ordeal.
"Almost there," our chirpy driver Sam chuckles, before turning onto a
stony dirt track. "No one knows about this beach, they want to keep it
private, so remember - this is our little secret!"
As we emerge for the overgrown track, I realise the car journey was
worth every minute.
Before us stretch miles of golden sand as far as we can see. Palm trees
reach up for the sky and the only noise we can hear is the sound of the
Arabian Sea as it crashes rhythmically against the beach.
An overnight stay at the private Cola Beach in Goa's far south is just
one of the many optional excursions that independent holiday operator
Jewel in the Crown offers to its guests.
 We stayed in one of just 12 self-contained, luxurious Rajasthani tents
that even have private en-suite bathrooms attached.
Most of our days were spent just lapping up the sun, swimming in the
sea, eating delicious home-cooked food and aiming for complete
relaxation. It wasn't hard - it was the perfect respite after leaving
the UK's dark and wintry days behind.
The best time to visit India's smallest state is between the end of
October and the end of April, after which it becomes very humid and the
monsoon rages. There is virtually no rain at all during the winter
months and temperatures hit around 30C every day.
In the morning, we knew our stay was complete when we saw the distant
shapes of dolphins dipping in and out of the surf past our beachside
hut, and a small sea otter poking its head out of the waves in our
direction.
Relaxing on beautiful beaches has always been Goa's main attraction -
and given that the state boasts 100 kilometres of coast, there are
plenty of deserted locations from Morjim and Aswem in the north to
Vagator in the south.
For a busier sunbathing experience, head north to the bustling centres
of Baga and Calangute where you can bag yourself a bargain in one of
many beachside shacks selling an array of jewellery, clothing and
woodwork.
Just remember - be prepared to barter. Sidney, our wonderful rep, summed
it up in a sentence: "I want you to walk away and be ashamed at how
cheap you are!"
In fact, it is very hard to spend money here - you can satisfy your
taste buds with a three-course meal for as little as £5, a large beer
costs around 80p and you can even bag a made-to-measure silk shirt for
£10. Getting around is also cheap and easy with shorter taxi journeys
costing as little as 50p.
 Hippies first stumbled on this piece of paradise back in the 60s. It was
a colony of Portugal until 1961 and since then more and more
backpackers, couples and families have been attracted to its laidback
vibe, multicultural atmosphere and welcoming locals.
We were staying in the livelier north at the two-star Senhor Angelo
Resort in Calangute. Although the rooms were fairly basic by European
standards, what the decor lacked the hotel staff more than made up for
with their charm and desire to help.
With Elton John's Greatest Hits on replay, there was always a friendly
face at the poolside bar ready to offer us a bite to eat or a drink to
enjoy as the sun set.
For foodies everywhere dining in Goa is an absolute delight combining a
range of Indian, tandoori and seafood dishes.
Our first evening meal took us to the alfresco After Seven restaurant
located between Calangute and Candolim where a three-course meal
including their house special - chargrilled steak cooked to perfection -
washed down with mango cocktails, cost about £10 a head.
The curries were full of distinctive flavours - spicy but not too hot
and never too heavy like English versions. Plantain Leaf in Calangute's
bustling centre is definitely worth a visit - the vegetarian restaurant
was packed with Indian visitors, which is always a good sign, and the
menu was enormous.
 A visit to India wouldn't be complete without a visit to a spice
plantation. We went to the 200-year-old Savoi Spice Plantation in Ponda,
which displayed a huge array of spices.
As we walked around, attempting to dodge the enormous spiders, our guide
made us identify the correct spices. Later, we had the chance to taste
them, as we enjoyed a fantastic lunch served on banana leaves.
This trip is easy to combine with a visit to Dudhsagar waterfalls, which
are two hours inland. The waterfalls - literally translated as the ocean
of milk - are the second highest in India and plummet from 610 metres
above sea level.
They are spectacular enough to entice a steady stream of visitors from
the coast into the rugged Western Ghats where some tourists are brave
enough to bathe in the refreshing water.
The waterfall itself is accessed via a short trek through the Bhagwan
Mahaveer Sanctuary. En route hordes of monkeys prise bananas and nuts
from the hands of unsuspecting guests - one even opened my fingers one
by one hoping for a tasty treat.
If animals are your passion, then a trip to Goa isn't complete without
an elephant ride. We spent two days in Shanti, a tiny hamlet located
within the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary, surrounded by natural
beauty.
On the first day we were lucky enough to ride a very friendly elephant
into a river where we sat on her back as she sprayed us with cool water.
Her reward? Bunches of tasty bananas bought from a local Goan market,
followed by a coconut scrub of her leathery skin as she relaxed in the
cooling waters.
 We stayed again in a self-contained hut that was far more sophisticated
than I had imagined, with an adjoining open-air bathroom and twin beds.
All in all, it was comfortable - as long as you don't mind sharing your
space with the odd creepy crawly.
Waking in the early morning we had a wander around the jungle before
breakfast. It was the perfect way to start the day.
Away from the towns and villages, Goa has some stunning scenery and much
of it is still untouched by mass tourism. As we watched the sun rise up
over the hills I knew I'd definitely be back.
TRAVEL FACTS
:: Georgina Rodgers went to Goa as a guest of Jewel in the Crown
Holidays, which offers a special price for 14 nights' B&B at Senhor
Angelo Resort in Calangute for£399 plus £50 fuel supplement on
selected dates between February 22 and April 14. Manchester departures
cost £20 extra, but Jewel in the Crown does not fly from Glasgow.
:: Jewel in the Crown reservations: 0870 067 2352 or online at
www.jewelholidays.com
:: Further images of Goa are available from Paul Foster Marketing, which
handles PR for Jewel in the Crown Holidays, contact Paul Foster, on
01737 353 887, or email paul@paulfosterpr.co.uk |
