Reykjavik
Cool World
by Anna Farley
While Iceland may not be the obvious first choice for a long weekend, if
you are looking for breathtaking natural phenomena, adventure
activities, or even a peaceful city break, it's got the lot.
 To relax and unwind after your flight, head to the outdoor geothermal
Blue Lagoon spa, not far from the airport. The water is too shallow for
swimming, and the short walk from the changing rooms to the spa a bit
nippy to say the least, but once you're shoulder-deep in 37 degree milky
blue water surrounded by snow, worries seem to drift away.
If they don't, you can always slip into the sauna, try a cleansing
silica face mask, have a massage or sip a trademark blue-coloured
cocktail as well.
I was so relaxed I could have nodded off. Luckily, I came round in time
enjoy a light lunch of lobster soup, salad and chocolate pudding in the
restaurant overlooking the lagoon, before a short drive into Reykjavik.
Although it is the country's capital city (and the world's most
northerly), Reykjavik is nowhere near the size of London - or even
Canterbury - with a population of only 115,000.
In a compact centre, it is hard to get lost. If you do, just look for
Hallgrimskirkja - the largest church in the country - which dominates
the skyline.
 Named after the religious poet Hallgrimur Petursson, it is Reykjavik's
most familiar landmark. Although its modern outer form is perhaps more
interesting than the sparse interior, it is worth going inside to see
the imposing pipe organ and - if you don't mind heights - the tower
offers panoramic views of the city.
Within a 10-minute stroll is the harbour where new fishing trawlers
nestle side-by-side with old black whaling vessels. Nearby lies a metal
sculpture of a longboat, and you can imagine just how difficult it must
have been for the Vikings - battling against the waves in small wooden
boats.
In the city centre, it's easy to pass an hour in the main pedestrianised
street of Austurstraeti by wandering round the small shops or sitting in
a cafe.
But if you want more culture, you might like to head to Reykjavik Art
Museum, or visit Austurvollur - a square believed to be the original
centre of the city, and which now hosts the rather unremarkable
parliament building.
While Reykjavik's attractions - which include several museums and a
theatre - can easily keep you occupied for two or three days, Iceland
has even more to offer if you venture inland.
Just a few miles away from the capital is the town of Hafnarfjordur - a
great place for a day trip with children. It is said to have one of the
richest elf and spirit populations in Iceland, and you can even join a
tour and visit their secret homes.
 According to our guide - who looked fairly elvish herself in a red
pointy hat - engineers on a recent building project consulted the
spirits before they started work. Being accomodating types, the
otherworldly inhabitants agreed to move their home to another rock so
the development could go ahead.
Heading east from Reykjavik, you can follow the Golden Circle to look at
some of the country's physical features: Thingvellir National Park, with
an impressive rift valley caused by tectonic plate movement, Stokkur
Geysir and Gullfoss (Golden Falls).
The original geyser, Geysir (the Gusher) - after which all others are
named - hasn't erupted naturally for more than 40 years. Nearby Strokkur
(the Churn), which spouts every few minutes some 20m and more into the
air, is said to be less dramatic but still breathtaking.
A short drive away is the gigantic thundering waterfall of Gullfoss. If
you dare, take the path along its edge to get a closer look - but watch
out for the spray (and the ice underfoot in winter).
If you feel a bit peckish after all the fresh air, or just want
somewhere to dry off, the cafe at the top of the gorge does hot and cold
snacks including a tasty traditional lamb and vegetable stew. It also
sells clothing and interesting souvenirs, such as reindeer horn cutlery.
 Another way to experience the great Icelandic outdoors is by ski-dooing
(snowmobiling). Although it can be pricey, racing across a glacier
during a blizzard is an exhilarating experience. Unfortunately the
excitement - and the cold - got a bit too much for me and I fainted.
I woke to find myself lying in the snow with two Icelandic faces peering
down at me, and was driven back to base in a 4x4 to be revived with a
raw tomato and some lemon-flavoured water, though a hot chocolate might
have worked just as well!
A more leisurely way to see the natural landscape is to trek on
horseback. Early settlers brought horses to Iceland and today there is a
ban on imports and exports to prevent the spread of disease.
Short and stocky, Islandshest are reckoned to be a mild-tempered breed
so even if you've never ridden before, you soon feel at ease. Some
horses on Ishestar Riding Tours know the route so well you just sit back
to enjoy the view.
As relaxing as it was, after an hour or so in the saddle there was
nothing more I wanted to do than head back to the Blue Lagoon - but alas
the hotel spa had to do.
 The roaring fire and comfortable armchairs at 101 Hotel are just what
you want after a day exposed to the elements, but the hotel is far from
traditional. Trendy, bright and airy, the hotel is named for the
postcode of central Reykjavik and its location could not be better for exploring the city. The food and the friendliness of staff also cannot
be faulted.
Generally speaking, Icelandic food is fresh and wholesome and, as you
might expect of an island, fish and seafood feature prominently on
menus.
A fine place to sample them is Seafood Cellar, housed in the basement of
the tourist information office. Its pan-Asian menu is delicious, with
eel, crab and lobster prepared in various ways - including teriyaki and
sashimi - as well as hare, pigeon and (strangely) kangaroo.
Reykjavik is feted for its night life and there is no shortage of bars.
If you are overwhelmed by choice, a 'Nightlife Friend' will show you
round.
A popular haunt is said to be the corrugated iron-covered Kaffibarinn,
which Blur's Damon Albarn partly owns. Whether you want a quiet place to
chat or a more lively haunt for dancing, you won't go far to find it.
TRAVEL FACTS
:: Anna Farley was a guest of British Airways Holidays, which offers a
three-night break at the five star 101 Hotel in Reyjavik during March
from £508 per person, made up of £127 on return flights, and £381 at the
hotel on accommodation-only terms.
:: Price from Glasgow is £639, with flights costing from £258 (via
Gatwick). Transfer from Manchester to Gatwick would have to be
overnight.
:: British Airways Holiday reservations: 0870 243 3406. Unless booking
is online at www.ba.com, there's a £15 per person supplement on
telephone bookings.
:: Iceland Tourist Board in Reykjavik is on 00354 535 5500, or by email:
info@icetourist.is. See also www.visiticeland.com or
www.visitreykjavik.is
:: Further images of Iceland are available from The Saltmarsh
Partnership, PR agency for Iceland Tourist Board, contact Rebecca Jenin,
on 020 7928 1600 or email rebecca@saltmarshpr.co.uk
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